So, where do I start… It has been a while since the last post and a lot of things in my life have changed. As a consequence, this blog also changed. No longer are we (Sandra & me) in this together and this blog will now follow me on following my dream – starting now!
I found myself in a crossroads in life these past few months and I found myself in a position that I got to think ‘What do I really want in this life?’. And the things that was always at the top of my mind, was how much I loved diving and sharks. Ever since I started diving in 2007 I was hooked but the past few years I didn’t make as much time for it as I wish I would have. The busy life… you know it. Work, sports, household, friends, living in Amsterdam, etc…
This is always an ‘easy’ excuse. Busy. With what?
Does it really make me happy? Wouldn’t I be better of on some sort of paradise where I could just walk into the water, enjoy the weightlessness and the beauty of the underwater world? Where I could just be there, with nature in its purest form? Sure, life was pretty great for me. A nice place to live, lots of things to do, many great friends in the area…
But life just showed me I should rethink where I was headed.
The only thing that still kept me from really doing it and leaving this life was my job. I must say I really do like my job as a process engineer at ICL as it gives me lots of challenges and great career perspective. At first I tried to arrange some sort of 6 months sabbatical but this was not possible. So I had a choice to make… Quit my job and all the certainty that it brings but being able to follow my dream, or just stay in this safe place.
Sure, not having a safe return option is scary, but it´s even more scary to pass on this beautiful dream. So there I go, I quit my job in the last hours of March and open this door! Not as an April fools day joke – I did publish it April 1st – but for real.
Pico under the clouds
Exploring Pico by bike June ’16
Pico and the Portugese flag
Pico above the clouds
Of course it was not without any preparation on making the adventure real; I’ve been contacting quite some people I know in the diving branch and thanks to Sander Evering I contacted Pico Sport on the Azores. I sent my sort-of job application and they got back to me with an offer to come and work from May until at least September. I visited Pico on the Azores once before in 2016, so I already had seen a bit of the island and figured I could very well be living there… Especially since my most favorite animals, sharks, are also in these waters and there’s whales, dolphins and also colorful underwater life!
And the good thing – I don’t just get to be teaching open water classes in the sand and on the shallow reefs but will really be having a far more diverse job! Nice dive sites with colorful fishes, sharks, mobulas, whales, dolphins and as far as I’ve heard and experienced so far there’s a great team of superenthousiastic people. And ocean awareness and shark conservation is high on their priorities so that’s something I want to dive into!
I’ll be back soon with the next post but for now: from May 21st I’ll be on this beautiful island I’ll call home from then! Follow me on my preparations and adventure by following this blog, the Instagram and my personal Instagram!
Waking up in Mae Chan, I didn’t feel as good as I hoped for – stomach ache and feeling weak, well that was probably just from the tough day before in the scorching heat. I figured some breakfast and tea would do me good. Unfortunately, that wasn’t the case and I was confronted with severe TD afterwards. I won’t elaborate on this bit (or, should I say shit…) – but I can assure you it took several hours before we could try and get back on the road again.
After I had taken Imodium to last a couple of hours, we headed out towards the South. This ride, my heart rate averaged at 87bpm – I’ve never seen it being this low while cycling. Arriving in Chiang Rai, we wanted to check out some temples and have the ultimate local specialty, Khao Soi Gai, at the restaurant Phor Jai – as recommended by Bangkok Airways’ magazine. I didn’t feel too great so we skipped the temples for after lunch. Khao Soi Gai is a local dish, essentially a coconut-curry chicken soup with cut rice noodles. It was really great, though my stomach wasn’t quite ready for this so Sandra got to enjoy 1,5 portions. I wish I could go back there and get it again and finish it myself.
There was a nice market nearby – Sandra checked it out while I was recovering that morning
Riding into Chiang Rai
This is where I (tried to) put on my happy face
The Khao soi gai, while I was still enjoying it
Fortunately, Sandra could really enjoy and got 1,5 portions while I got 0,5 and 2 Coca Cola to settle the stomach
This place is so local – it didn’t even have an English name on the sign. We recognized it by the good description on Tripadvisor!
After lunch, it was clear. We were only about 30K into our 90K ride and this wasn’t going to be any fun at all for me. Again, we had to cheat, taking a taxi. We tried to negotiate a good price. The guy wanted to take us but then found out our bikes should also come – that made it 400 baht more. Figuring we were lucky enough to have found a taxi that could fit us and the bikes within a couple of minutes we decided to take it. Arriving at the resort, it seemed we were the only ones staying here. The room was nice – for me that day, nice meant it had a good toilet – and there was a huge swimming pool. During dinner, we sat in a semi-open room with place for about 100 persons – and we were the only ones having dinner. It was as if we had entered into Jurassic Park, beautifully in the jungle but no other people around.
The area we were riding through is famous for its hot springs
Good quality tarmac with rolling hills made this trip quite enjoyable
We were almost riding through the jungle. Being at the end of the raining season, the jungle was really green and dense – simply beautiful!
As we experienced in the preceding days, the elevation profile of Strava Routes wasn’t too reliable and there were a lot of 12%+ surprises on the smaller roads. So we decided change our route a bit and stay on the larger roads to avoid these steep gradients. The majority of the route was awesome, going through the jungle and coming across several temples and hot springs. And the best thing – I could even get some power on the pedals again! The ride went quite smooth and after two Coca Cola stops we arrived at our destination of the day, the Mai Siam resort. We were welcomed with a fresh juice at this great place to spend the rest day!
That evening we had a fantastic dinner (sorry, I didn’t take any pics!) and went to bed early to get on the scooter the next day and discover the paradise we arrived at.
And then it hit us – we had arrived in paradise!
There was a platter of local fruits we could enjoy after getting a well deserved refreshing shower
The route for the day brought us closer to Chiang Mai again – you could notice it with the increase of traffic
So there we were in the Marisa Resort in Chiang Dao. We set the alarm quite early, wanting to beat the heat of mid-day. It was going to be quite a tough day, the route being 106KM long with a lot of altimeters to cover in the last 20KM, up the Doi Angkhang. With several kilometers with gradients of over 13%, we tried setting up a pickup for Sandra and my bags to the restort at the start of the climb and myself taking on the challenge.
During the night, we already noticed quite some thunder whenever we would wake up. We figured it couldn´t be that bad, just a storm during the night. That, however, was not true. We woke up at 07:00 and we could hear the drops. It poured.
Optimistic as we were, we went out to go for breakfast and postponed our departure time a bit. Come on, it was the tail of the rainy season, of course there would be some rain. But leaving the chalet we quickly realized this wasn’t just some rain. It had been coming down throughout the night and was still raining and there were enormous pools on the roads in the resort. Luckily we had an umbrella in the chalet!
But it seemed there was no way it was going to get better. Looking up the weather on the internet didn’t make it any better unfortunately – it showed the storm would be worse going North. After we had breakfast, we went to the reception to inform about the weather and the forecast. They told us it wasn’t going to get better today. It was a hard call to make, but we had to take a taxi. It would be too risky with probably some flooded roads and all the muck in the streets. The taxi driver even said he couldn´t give an estimation on how long it would take with his 4×4 Toyota Hilux, it was going to be anywhere between 2 to 4 hours…
On the road in the Hilux we stopped at several amazing viewpoints – at least we could still enjoy the scenery in another way! Along the way we could accept our choice for the taxi, going through multiple half meter deep pools, a lot of rubbish washed on the road and small rivers racing across the roads.
Wet roads everywhere – at least the view was great!
Driving through the hills, the clouds were hanging very low
The roads were a mess – this is nothing compared to the half meter deep pools we crossed along the way
The view at our scenic stop – across the valley is Burma
It took us over 2 hours to drive just 80KM. Looking at the map afterwards, we drove along the 1178 and 1340 to the North through quite dense jungle – it was beautiful! Arriving at the Doi Angkhang Nature resort we found ourselves at one of the best resorts of this trip! A fantastic location, with a huge bed – you could fit a whole family in it – great food and a seemingly famous Agricultural Center at walking distance. The first thing we did after putting our stuff away, was get some proper Thai lunch! They had a lot of North Thai specialties such as spiced minced pork, grilled pork skin, locally grown fruits and veggies and much more.
The gigantic bed!
Following lunch, we went for a walk (we didn’t do any sports that day, so we had to!) through the small town and up to the agricultural center. The surroundings there are so beautiful, with a great viewpoint around each corner!
I can go on about the views forever
The agricultural center – where all the veggies and fruits are locally grown!
The village, even with its own dogs and donkeys!
Walking through the village
At least it wasn’t raining anymore and the forecast was looking better and better for the coming days – luckily! But I do have to come back for this epic climb of the Doi Angkhang. The next morning, we woke up to a beautiful view, had an early breakfast as planned and set out to go North, through the Agricultural Center park and continue along the border, passing small villages and some steep inclines before we would descent towards the East.
Killing it on the climbs
As we rode through the park along our planned route and went through the villages we noticed the Burmese border on our left but well, Google Maps showed us the road would stay Thai. Well… That wasn’t the case. All of a sudden, a gatehouse appeared with closed barriers on the road – you could walk and ride underneath them, but the dogs that came running and barking towards us from the gatehouse suggested this was not really allowed. As the military gatekeeper came collecting his dogs, I cautiously asked if we could continue our path, but the answer was no. There went our plan for the day – we just rode an hour across roads with gradients sometimes exceeding 15%. There we were, getting scared away by the dogs and the unexpected border. We turned around, figured a new route that would be the quickest to pick up a decent route and that would be the descent of the Doi Angkhang from where we were planning to come up. This added about 30K to our ride – resulting that we would be climbing in the scorching heat later that day.
The people in these villages probably almost never see any cyclists or tourists – let alone a female foreigner on a bike! Especially with a dead-end road…
The descent of the Doi Angkhang! As it had a couple of KM’s with gradients of over 13% and even several hundreds of meters of >15% it was quite an awesome descent!
And down she goes!
As we were approaching the less steep part, it continued going downhill for quite some time, providing amazing views
As we rode into Fang, we came back onto our planned route – Garmin updated the KM’s to our destination… 85! And we were already approaching the 50K mark. Then it really landed that this day wasn’t going to be easy. It might’ve been quite a good thing that we had a rest day the day before. Riding along our route, crossing several rivers and passing magnificent Buddha statues and impressive temples while the heat was continuously increasing the scenery kept our minds distracted to just keep pedaling on. The Garmin elevation chart still showed one challenge to overcome near the 100K mark – a climb of just under 10K’s showing an elevation increase that suggested 5/6% average. Nothing too difficult you would say, but after being on the road for over 6 hours under the blazing sun, we desperately needed some coolness and a Coca Cola. After this quick break, we took on the climb. By now we already had an idea that averages don’t mean anything here in Thailand and that was exactly what this climb turned out to be. With parts around 13% and 1,5KM at almost 11% it was not as easy as we hoped it would be – especially with all the stuff we had in our bags. 34×28 is normally quite OK for 12%, but by now we wished we had MTB gearing.
Clear blue skies with some small clouds – you’d say great, but we said HOT!
The view was amazing and could distract us enough most of the time
Riding through Thai towns the people don’t seem to know how to interact with bicycles but luckily in this part the drivers aren’t in a rush as in Bangkok
Thailand is just amazing with all the Buddhist things you come across such as these impressive statues
The temples along the way are beautiful – the perfect places for a quick break
They’re really, really big!
Sandra and the Elephant
The refresher – a Coca Cola, two water bottles and crisps for salt!
So after this grueling climb, we were ‘almost’ there. Only about 30K’s to go… and most of it downhill – luckily! It was quite silent in this last bit of the day – both being hammered by the long day of tough cycling. We could not wait to lie down on a bed with a cold beer in our hands, have dinner and go to bed early. What a day – but we made it!
It’s already more than a year ago now, but looking at the photographs and video it still feels like last week.
I’ve been diving in the Red Sea once before in 2008 a, so that was a long time ago. Being one of the best places for diving in the world, I decided to go for it again. This time we chose the M/Y Sea Serpent for the Liveaboard and take the Brothers, Daedalus and Elphinstone route. Promises of large schools of fish, turtles, pristine reefs and SHARKS! Before this trip, I had only seen a small nurse shark, asleep… And diving with sharks was my number 1 dream, which finally came true!
So I won’t be boring you with a long story this time – I’ll let the photographs do the talking!
Going out during the early mornings
The face of diving
The seas were quite rough during this part of the season – making for quite some waves, but also no other Liveaboards!
All our diving gear was set out with lots of spare space – a great advantage of going in the low season
During the check dives, we didn’t go out all the way to the goal – diving the Brothers, Daedalus or Elphinstone, but instead did some nice Red Sea dives near Hurghada. There was an abundance of fish, even though it was relatively close to the shore. Good to see!
This was one of the prettiest (and smallest) moray eels we encountered
A Napoleon Wrasse – enormous and curious! Divers used to feed them eggs, they loved it but they started to die – now they still come up close, but we certainly won’t feed them
This piece of hand-coral holds the fish in it
Juvenile fish hiding in the coral
A surprised moray eel
An incredible abundance of fish
Sandra facing the fish
Then came the time for us to move on to the real deal – and the chance for encountering sharks increased! Sherif, the guide, the purest form of shark lover, gave us all an extensive briefing on how to behave when we would encounter sharks. Not because they’re dangerous but because they get scared off easily, the last thing we would want happening.
In the end we saw three different Oceanic Whitetips, a Thresher shark and Scalloped Hammerhead. These were too shy to come close enough for good photo, so that’s something we still owe you.
Moving on to Daedalus, we hoped for the Hammerheads to appear in large numbers on the North side of the reef. We were less lucky than the group a week before who saw 20 – we encountered zero. That’s just how nature works.
After several dives on the North side, hoping to encounter the hammerheads, the group decided to also dive under the boat. A great surprise was to find three Silky sharks swimming right under us!
Silky shark! Notice the hook in her mouth – showing that even at these pristine places our impact is noticeable
The group was quite far behind me, but this shark didn’t feel threathened by me and my camera and came checking me out from quite close
After the dives at Daedalus there was some time before sunset to go and have a look at and in the lighthouse.
The lighthouse and the now unused railway
The Sea Serpent being the only boat on the site – a rare sight!
Looking down the staircase
The lens which still provides navigational aid to ships passing along. The lighthouse was originally built in 1863 and rebuilt in 1931.
Looking down you had a marvellous sight of the reef just below the surface – and Sherif passing by down below!
Then for the final part we moved on to Elphinstone – with promises of gigantic coral fans and steep walls into the depth. And again, a high likelihood for sharks!
Huge coral fans populate the reef of Elphinstone
This beautiful Blue Spotted Stingray seemed to be quite used to passing divers
The walls were steep and beautifully covered with coral
The curiosity of such an animal – It’s amazing
The beauty – not the beast
Unfortunately, we only had one dive at this fantastic dive site due to the rough seas. So we moved on. The good thing was that at the new site, we could do a night dive – one of my other favourite things!
Porcupinefish – there were many, and Sandra loved pointing them out!
A colourful parrotfish
After another couple of dives on the following day, we had to return to the port of Hurghada. We faced quite rough seas and almost everybody on board got seasick. Good thing the crew had the strong anti-motion-sickness pills! 🙂
Waiting for everything to dry
A final beer
Arriving back in the port of Hurghada, there was nothing left to do besides cleaning the diving gear and drinking a final beer in the evening – going through all the fantastic photo’s and video’s everyone had made by that point. The video we made can be seen on YouTube:
We would like to thank the Sea Serpent crew and especially Sherif our guide and shark whisperer for the wonderful trip and we’ll come back for sure!
Last September we went on quite a big adventure – flying to Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand and cycling a loop of over 600KM, from resort to resort, through the most beautiful sceneries I’ve ever seen.
This will be the first post in the bikepacking series of 6 posts, starting off with the preparations and the first day.
Last September we went on quite a big adventure – flying to Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand and cycling a loop of over 600KM, from resort to resort, through the most beautiful sceneries I’ve ever seen.
It all started quite small, with the idea to just do a quick trip to Thailand and relax. Up to the point that we figured out that the one thing we are bad at, is sitting down for longer than a couple of hours. So the plan was to see something of Northern Thailand and dive on one of the Islands (more about that in another post!).
A couple of friends did some bikepacking through Europe before and that sounded like the perfect way to see a lot, avoid touristic hubs, while still traveling quite some distance – we ordered the necessary bikepacking bags (Apidura saddle packs– highly recommended!) and started to look for road bike rental options, weather, resorts, etcetera.
Then came the route. We knew Spiceroads did some organised tours and we could see some parts of the route but wanted to create our own adventure. Using Strava heatmaps and segments, Google Maps and Streetview we managed to get quite a decent route – I thought at least. Well, I had to think again when we went looking for places to stay… The route forced us to a 300+KM ride between locations, no way this was an option. So, back to the drawing board, now simultaneously looking up hotels/resorts with ±100KM between them and drawing the route while still checking the road on Streetview, ensuring it’s at least rideable by road bike. After a long evening with two bottles of wine, it resulted in a quite ambitious 855KM route with a lot of altimeters.
We had 9 cycling days, so just under 100KM a day and a rest day in the middle- shouldn’t be a problem, right?
So I came back from a business trip in China and
Sandra already arrived in Bangkok in the morning, providing a warm welcome at the resort with a Chang beer after the flight and long taxi drive. We relaxed a bit and walked around the area of the hotel. We probably were quite lucky being outside of the real touristic season and having relatively few tourists in the area! Our flight from Bangkok to Chiang Mai was scheduled for departure at 08:05 the next morning, so we went to bed quite early after having a delicious Pad Thai, another beer and repacking of our bags in a way that we could get on the bike as quickly as possible!
The trip was really smooth, getting us at Spiceroads in Chiang Mai around 11:00. We prepared the bikes, all our gear that we had to take, changed our outfits and left almost everything locked up at the office there. Certainly for Sandra, picking only one set of clothing (for 10 days!), was quite a challenge 🙂
We were on the road around noon, set to ride about 80KM that day to arrive well before sunset at our first resort. The climate was something we really had to get used to – fortunately, the first day was a flat ride like we Dutch know very well 😉 After leaving Chiang Mai behind us, we were instantly surrounded by beautiful scenery and even some jungle. Moreover, when arriving at the resort we were overwhelmed by the beauty. I even got so overwhelmed that while riding from the reception to our cottage I had to brake for a small bump in the road… the bike being top-heavy with the bag, the road slippery green and, as I experienced, quite hard to fall on. Luckily it were just some scratches and bruises but this was not going to be the last fall this trip.
Beautiful skies and a touch of jungle
We named the tour ‘Cocoroad’ – however, it took us a lot of time to find the next coconut…